Ever since moving to the cities, the Mississippi has left me entranced. It snakes through parkland and cityscape here with equal measure, and every time I cross a bridge I have a hard time keeping my eyes on the road. I have been nervous to take my boat out on her, though. Familiar as I am with kayaking over ocean waves, navigating tides and beach landings, I have no experience at all with currents, eddies, barge traffic or reading river maps. I took a night paddle with a group through a local outfitter back in June and was pleasantly surprised that the river didn’t seem as daunting as I’d chalked it up to be in my mind, but even then there was still safety in numbers and with guides close at hand. But still that siren song wafted through the back of my mind, stronger when the blue water stretched away far below a highway bridge or at my feet while I threw a ball for Ersta along her banks at the dog park.
Two weeks ago, with Pete in town to shuttle cars, I launched a plan for a solo river trip. I had been waffling for weeks, weighing the danger of going my myself against the likelihood of recruiting willing subjects for this navigational experiment. In the end, I decided that if I waited around for company, I would never go. Arguing against his strong reservations and swallowing hard to silence mine, I convinced Pete to shuttle my car down river to a little boat launch near a huge highway bridge outside of Saint Paul – I figured I couldn’t miss such a landmark and my take-out point, despite it’s inauspicious nature. He left me back at the upriver put-in with my boat, sunscreen, a bottle of water and two Clif bars. I clambered into my long ocean boat and spun downstream, trying to get my bearings in the current. I crossed the river and started paddling, passing the dog park along the banks and startled by how small it seemed as I skittered by, pulled inexorably south. Within minutes, the launch was out of sight and I was committed to this course. A course whose timing and navigational details I was only partially sure of.
I had a melt-down hours before we shuttled the cars and kayak for my launch. All the old demons of insecurity and self-doubt raised their heads, shadowing the perfect, sun drenched summer day and leaving me crying and shuddering in the car in a parking lot near our house. What was I doing? Who am I, with all my failures and shortcomings, to think I could undertake such an ill-advised and potentially dangerous paddle down a huge river, alone, dodging industrial boat traffic and stern wheelers, in a boat designed for the ocean? All my own doubts screamed in my ears and it took everything I had to silence them and go through with the launch.
On the river, I paddled hesitantly at first, getting used to the way the current fishtailed my boat, riding the rocking wakes of passing speed boats. There was a lot of traffic out, between touristy paddle boats full of sight-seers to fellow kayakers making their slow way up the eddy on the far shore. There were families fishing along the beaches, egrets in the weeds and eagles overhead. The current was swift but manageable. I paddled along, more and more confidant, until the first tugboat passed and nearly flipped me in its rolling wake. Subdued, I paddled on past the rough confluence of the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers, and the current slowed. Downtown Saint Paul appeared on the horizon of the river, growing with each stroke, and I was paddling hard now to make headway in the seemingly dead water. As I made my way through the cityscape, boat traffic thinned and giant barges began to appear, tethered to the shore on either side. The lush parkland that had rimmed the river so far gave way to scrub and gravel pits, and the river widened and slowed even more. Wildlife disappeared. I was alone in the expanse of water under a screaming early afternoon sun. Passing under a huge railroad bridge, I nearly jumped out of my boat as another tug passed me, coming up nearly silent from behind. I had no time to adjust to its wake, and was soaked as wave after wave broke over my boat and I struggled to stay upright. Crisis averted, although now sitting in a puddle of river water, I turned my bow back downstream and paddled on. Three hours in, three and a half, and no highway bridge in sight. My arms began to shake, and I slowed my strokes down to a more manageable expedition pace – one I should have been channeling from the beginning.
In the end, the highway bridge appeared, along with her busy boat launch. I managed to slip in between motor boats and get out without falling and making a fool of myself in front of all the weekend traffic. I was shaking, but elated. I had done it. I had managed to paddle twenty miles down a historic river, and finished strong. The demons were banished for a little while longer, and hopefully I’m a little stronger to beat them back the next time they rear their ugly heads.





